Protocols for the Effective Management of Men's Cystic Acne

Men's guide to getting rid of troublesome cyctic acne and achieving clear skin once and for all

Published on
April 19, 2024
Acne
7 min read
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Cystic Acne: Pathophysiology and Diagnosis

Cystic acne represents one of the most severe forms of acne vulgaris, characterized by deep, inflamed, pus-filled cysts and nodules. The condition arises from complex interactions between genetic predispositions, hormonal fluctuations, excessive sebum production, follicular hyperkeratinization, and bacterial colonization by Cutibacterium acnes. When pores on the skin become clogged with excess oil, dead skin cells, and other debris, C. acnes bacteria can multiply rapidly in the trapped sebum, leading to inflammation, redness, and the formation of pimples or acne lesions which run the risk of scarring.

Identifying cystic acne primarily involves visual observation, but there are certain characteristics that distinguish it from other types of acne:

  • Deep, Painful Bumps: Cystic acne lesions are typically large, red, and painful. They are deeply embedded in the skin and feel like soft, fluid-filled lumps under the skin's surface. These bumps can be more severe than typical pimples because they form deeper within the skin and do not come to a head.
  • Location and Duration: Cystic acne can occur on the face, as well as other parts of the body such as the chest, back, and shoulders. The lesions often last for weeks or even months, and because they are deep within the skin, they may be difficult to treat with over-the-counter medications.
  • Scarring and Aftereffects: This type of acne is more likely to leave behind scars or dark spots after it heals compared to other types of acne due to the inflammation and depth of the skin affected.

However, while these observations can be done at home and can give you an idea whether you might have cystic acne, a definitive diagnosis should ideally be made by a dermatologist or healthcare professional.

Dermatological Treatments for Cystic Acne

Managing cystic acne effectively usually requires a mix of treatments that work inside the body (systemic) and directly on the skin (topical). This approach helps tackle the condition from multiple angles.

Systemic approaches:

  • Isotretinoin: Considered the gold standard for severe cystic acne, isotretinoin significantly reduces sebaceous gland size and sebum production, inhibits comedogenesis, and possesses anti-inflammatory properties. Treatment duration and dosage require meticulous monitoring due to potential side effects.
  • Antibiotics: Used primarily for their anti-inflammatory properties, tetracyclines such as doxycycline or minocycline can be prescribed. However, their use should be limited to the shortest duration necessary to reduce antibiotic resistance risk.
  • Hormonal Therapies: In cases driven by hormonal imbalances, options such as oral contraceptives or anti-androgens like spironolactone can be effective, particularly in female patients demonstrating hormonal acne triggers.

Topical approaches:

  • Retinoids: Retinoids such as Adapalene, Tretinoin, and Tazarotene enhance cellular turnover, critical for acne management. They expedite the replacement of old skin cells with new ones, prevent pore blockages, and reduce inflammation. Their action reduces the formation of both inflammatory and non-inflammatory acne lesions.
  • Antibiotics: Topical antibiotics, including Clindamycin and Erythromycin, are employed to target and reduce populations of Cutibacterium acnes, the bacteria contributing to acne inflammation. By diminishing bacterial presence, these antibiotics help reduce inflammation and prevent new acne outbreaks. However, they are generally recommended for short-term use to prevent antibiotic resistance.  
  • Benzoyl Peroxide: Benzoyl Peroxide has dual action: it kills bacteria (bactericidal) and reduces inflammation, crucial for treating acne. By breaking down in the follicle, it releases oxygen, an environment in which C. acnes bacteria cannot survive. Additionally, it helps in dissolving the blockage within the pores, thereby reducing the severity of acne.
  • Salicylic Acid: Salicylic Acid is a beta-hydroxy acid that aids in the breakdown of blackheads and whiteheads. It works by dissolving the type of skin debris that clogs pores and causes acne, which is known as keratolytic action. Moreover, it has anti-inflammatory properties that help to reduce the redness and swelling associated with acne.
  • Azelaic Acid: Azelaic Acid has multiple beneficial actions for acne sufferers: it reduces microbial growth, mitigates inflammation, and helps to unclog pores. It is particularly noted for its effectiveness in treating mild to moderate acne and is well-tolerated by individuals with sensitive skin.
  • Niacinamide: Niacinamide, or Vitamin B3, has been shown to reduce skin inflammation and redness. Its anti-inflammatory properties are particularly beneficial for treating acne, as it can help to soothe irritated skin and diminish the visibility of blemishes.

Alternative Dermatological Interventions

In addition to pharmacological treatments, dermatologists may employ procedural interventions for cystic acne:

  • Intralesional Corticosteroid Injections: Effective for reducing inflammation and size of acute cystic lesions, offering rapid improvement.
  • Laser and Light-Based Therapies: Techniques such as photodynamic therapy can target and reduce Propionibacterium acnes, decrease sebum production, and ameliorate post-acne erythema.
  • Chemical Peels: Chemical peels involve the application of solutions like salicylic acid or glycolic acid, which help exfoliate the top layers of the skin, leading to pore unclogging and improvement in skin texture.
  • Blue Light Therapy: This non-invasive therapy uses blue light wavelengths to target and kill Cutibacterium acnes bacteria on the skin. By reducing the bacterial load, blue light therapy helps in lowering inflammation and preventing new acne breakouts
  • Red Light Therapy: Red light therapy helps to reduce inflammation and can accelerate the healing process of the skin, aiding in the reduction of swelling, redness, and acne lesion size.

Dermatological Skincare Routines for Cystic Acne

For effective management of cystic acne, adopting a targeted skincare strategy is essential. This regimen should focus on reducing excess oil and sebum production to prevent pore blockages, eliminating acne-causing bacteria to reduce inflammation, and removing dead skin cells to clear clogged pores. Additionally, it’s important to minimize skin irritation and strengthen the skin’s natural barrier to support overall skin health. Following this balanced approach, informed by biological principles, can lead to significant improvements in cystic acne conditions and maintain healthier skin.

Morning Routine:

Gentle Cleanser: Start with a mild, non-comedogenic cleanser to gently remove overnight build-up without irritating the skin.

CeraVe hydrating cleanser 

Hyaluronic Acid Serum: Apply a hyaluronic acid serum to damp skin to help lock in moisture and maintain skin hydration.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum

Niacinamide Serum: Follow with a niacinamide serum to help reduce inflammation and redness, and to regulate oil production.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum

Moisturizer: Use a lightweight, oil-free moisturizer to keep your skin hydrated. Using an oil-free product prevents acne issues from exacerbating. Men with oily skin should opt for oil-free products.

La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Fluid Moisturizer

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Face Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid

Sunscreen: Apply broad-spectrum sunscreen with at least SPF 40 to protect your skin from UV damage, particularly important when using acne treatments that may increase sun sensitivity.

Kao - Biore UV Aqua Rich Watery Essence SPF 50+ PA++++

Madagascar Centella Hyalu-Cica Water-Fit Sun Serum SPF50 PA++++

Night Routine:

Isotretinoin (if prescribed): If your dermatologist has prescribed isotretinoin, take it as directed, typically after meals to improve absorption and reduce stomach upset.

Gentle Cleanser: Wash your face with the same mild cleanser to remove dirt, oil from the day.

CeraVe hydrating cleanser 

Hyaluronic Acid Serum: After cleansing, apply hyaluronic acid serum to help maintain skin hydration overnight.

The Ordinary Hyaluronic Acid 2% + B5 Hydrating Serum

Hydrating and healing serum: Niacinamide or ceramide based serums are compatible with tretinoin and can be used together in a skincare routine. Niacinamide and ceramides can help mitigate some of the irritation and redness that can be caused by tretinoin.

The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1% Oil Control Serum

Dr. Jart+ Cicapair Sensitive Skin Serum for Redness and Barrier Repair

Moisturizer: Reapply a hydrating, oil-free moisturizer to address any dryness, particularly essential for those on isotretinoin treatment.

La Roche Posay Toleriane Dermallergo Fluid Moisturizer

Neutrogena Hydro Boost Face Moisturizer with Hyaluronic Acid

Topical Retinoids: Apply a topical retinoid to help clear acne and prevent new outbreaks. Note: If you are using both retinoid and an active product, pay attention to how your skin responds, as combining them can sometimes cause irritation for sensitive skin.

Zo Skin Health Retinol Skin Brightener .5%

Skinceuticals Retinol 0.5%

Shani Darden Skin Care Retinol Reform® Treatment Serum

Additional Tips

  • Always introduce new products gradually and monitor your skin's response.
  • Avoid using too many active ingredients at once to prevent skin irritation.
  • Stay consistent with your routine for the best results and consult your dermatologist regularly, especially when managing cystic acne with medications like isotretinoin.
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